Friday, 1 March 2013

Camera Cheat sheet - part 1 - The basics

Originally published: 2010-05-14 on my old blog

I've put this brief intro together in the hope that it will explain the basics
of some of the jargon you'll encounter around digital cameras, and how to make the
most of your photos. It's part one in a series of posts, the size of which I haven't decided yet.
Enjoy!


Aperture or f/number

Relates to the size of the circular hole through which light enters the camera. A wider aperture means more light will enter the camera.
A higher f/number gives a smaller aperture (less light), a lower f/number gives a wider aperture (more light).
Aperture controls depth of field, which is the amount of an image which is in focus. A wider aperture (smaller number) gives a smaller depth of field, meaning
less of the area in front of and behind the object you have focussed on will be in sharp focus. Use wider apertures for portraits (such as f/11), and narrower ones (such as f/2.8) for landscapes.


Larger aperture lenses tend to be more expensive as they use higher-quality and more glass elements in their construction.

Shutter Speed

Controls how many milliseconds the shutter remains open, capturing light for your image. The longer the shutter is open, the more chance there is that you will either shake the camera,
or the subject you are photographing moves, blurring the image.
You will usually need a tripod for any exposure longer than 1/60 of a second. For fast-moving objects you will need faster
shutter speeds to capture them without blurring the image. (1/200 or faster). Cameras with vibration reduction or steady-shot technology will allow longer exposures without blurring the image through
camera shake, but will not affect motion-blur from fast-moving objects.

White balance and colour temperature

Often left on auto. A higher "K" (Kelvin) value, the higher the colour temperature, and the warmer (redder)
an image will look, a lower temperature results in a cooler (bluer) image.


For example you may have to change this to reduce the orange tinge you often get under tungsten lighting, by setting a lower colour temperature in post-processing, or selecting the correct temperature preset in the camera.

Focal length

Our eyes' natural focus length is around 50mm, anything lower than this is called wide-angle (17 - 50mm), anything higher than this (50mm+) is called telephoto. Wide angle lenses allow you to see a larger
field of view (more objects), but those objects will look smaller. Telephoto lenses will show you a smaller field of view, but the objects in that field will look larger (more "zoomed in").
Typically telephoto
lenses will have a higher f/number (thus let in less light) than wide-angle lenses.

Exposure Compensation

In certain circumstances, you may find that the exposure that your camera has picked for an image is too dark or too bright, in this case you can re-take the image and adjust the exposure compensation to correct it.
For example by
default a camera will underexpose snow, making it look grey, rather than white.

ISO

This number relates to the sensitivity of the camera to light. The default is normally 100 ISO. The higher the ISO the more sensitive to light, but the more noise (speckles) you will get on the image.

In digital cameras it will simply amplify the signal. Useful in low light, or at night, to increase the shutter speed you can use and reduce blur, but at the cost of slightly increased noise.

RAW vs JPEG

An image saved as RAW saves the un-processed information straight from the camera's sensor. It means that you will have to process the image before you can see it on screen or share it with friends. However it also means that the camera
hasn't decided for you what the image should look like, and things like the colour temperature can be set correctly.
It also allows you to make bigger changes to the brightness and colour of the image than you would by re-processing a JPEG
image that's already been saved by the camera.

Modes

Full Auto (AUTO on most camera dials) - Camera controls everything for you, including ISO and Flash


Program (P) - Camera controls Aperture and Shutter speed to give correct exposure, may or may not control ISO


Aperture Priority (A or Av) - Camera determines shutter speed to use, based on the aperture you have chosen to give a correct exposure


Shutter Priority (S or Tv) - Camera determines aperture to use, based on the shutter speed requested to give correct exposure


Full Manual (M) - All settings can be changed simultaneously, up to you to work out correct exposure (maybe using a light meter).




Try to use your camera in Aperture priority, Shutter Priority, and Program modes, rather than leaving it on Auto, to learn more about how these affect your image.

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Django 1.5 released

Weblog | Django:

'via Blog this'

Monday, 25 February 2013

OBi202: First Impressions

If you've been reading my previous posts, you'll know that I've just replaced a (fake) Linksys PAP2T with a shiny new Obihai OBi202 box, for running my analogue telephone handset and house alarm through the internet. *

It arrived from Amazon on Saturday in a plain-looking white box, but it looks smart, it's compact, and everything plugged in as I expected it should.  The on-line device admin guide (pdf) is long, but easy to follow, and 90% of it you'll never need anyway.

The web administration site (find the IP from your router or by entering ***021 from the attached phone) is much prettier, more detailed but easier to follow than the PAP2T. After a minor hiccup everything was set up without any trouble.  So far it doesn't seem to be randomly dropping the SIP registration like the PAP2T did.

It supports up to 4 different SIP profiles, as well as Google Voice (if it ever makes it to the UK properly), and usefully, different profiles for things like tone settings, so you can mix and match providers, codecs, ring settings, etc.  It'll even allow you to set up a IVR system ("press 1 to speak to Rich") if it takes your fancy. The only improvement I'd like to see is an option to set the ring voltage, caller id, etc automatically to UK settings - you're basically given USA, Nordic, or create-your-own...

Most importantly of all, the call quality of the '202 is very good indeed.  How much of this is due to the OBi and how much to the changes my ISP made ("upgraded firmware on your section of the network") I will never know, but I'm happy.  The unit also sports a USB socket, so you can hook it up to WiFi, share files or link it to your phone by bluetooth.  The bluetooth option initially appealed to me, except the dongle doesn't seem to be available in the UK, and it's the wrong-way-around for my needs - it'll allow you to use your mobile network as a backbone, rather than using your mobile phone as an additional home phone.

I've also edited the phone book entries (prepend *68) on the connected telephone so that caller id is un-suppressed for my grandma, so she knows who's calling.  It remains suppressed for everyone else.  All I need to do now is figure out how the digit maps work, so I can call 123456 without having to prefix the area code (01234).


* As I have WiMax broadband, I have no need to have a BT landline for broadband, and no need to pay £13/month for the privilege.  I've got a free account from Sipgate.co.uk for calls.

Disclaimer: These opinions are entirely my own, I have no affiliation with sipgate or obihai, and paid for the box like everyone else.

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Getting an Obihai 202 working with Sipgate UK

I received my Obi202 VoIP ATA yesterday, took it out of the box, tossed aside the counterfeit PAP2T, plugged it all in and fired up the web interface (dial ***030, option 1).  I entered the settings for sipgate.co.uk (from their website), but kept getting "403 - No valid Username" whenever I tried to register.  Googling didn't seem to help, so I thought I'd share the solution here.

The OBi202 has 3 fields (amongst others) under System Management -> Voice Services -> SPx service, they are AuthUserName, AuthPassword, URI.  

I set them to my sipgate 8-digit username, my sipgate password, and then guessed at "sipgate.co.uk" for the URI.  I then wasted an hour trawling through the other settings (of which there are many) - none of which made any difference.

The solution? URI isn't a url or domain name, it's just your username, so set it exactly the same as the AuthUserName, and everything will work perfectly.


Wednesday, 20 February 2013

I've been sold a counterfeit VoIP ATA

Recently, the call quality of my VoIP calls over my Linksys PAP2T box has dramatically decreased, to the point that calls are barely decipherable.  So off I go to the internet to research reasons and solutions.  I tried a few things, but to seemingly no effect.  Even a call to sipgate's 10000 test number was garbled.  It didn't matter whether I used G.711u or G.729a.  I found reloading the status page whilst on a call very slow indeed, making it difficult to get stats on jitter and packet loss, etc.

When I got to the bottom of this page I noticed a warning about counterfeit Linksys PAP2Ts, and curiosity took me here.  To my dismay my grey box failed all of the prerequisites for being a genuine product:

1) I bought it on eBay
2) The item description was "UNLOCKED LINKSYS PAP2T-NA SIP VOIP Phone Adapter 2 Port From london sell"
3) It came from china, from a seller with poor english
4) It was cheap (£21)
5) The MAC address started 00:AA:B9 which isn't a Cisco MAC
6) The sticker on the back was not just wrong, it was missing entirely
7) The 2 pin power supply looked nothing like it should
8) I'm not even sure I got a box with it.

The most worrying part is, the potentially dangerous piece of kit had been plugged into the mains in my house 24/7 for many months.

The call quality may be entirely unrelated to the provenance of the ATA, but I'm buying a new one nonetheless.

more information:

VoIP Fan - Check if a PAP2/PAP2T is genuine:

Wednesday, 21 November 2012

Fix a noisy toilet pipe

If your toilet (or any tap for that matter) vibrates noisily like a foghorn after the toilet cistern has finished filling (or you shut the tap), there's a really easy fix.

Ours started after we'd had the water turned off a few times, and got to the point where it happened every time for several seconds - not brilliant at 3am!

To fix:
1) turn the water off using the stopcock under the sink
2) open all the taps in the house
3) get someone to hold down the toilet flush
4) very slowly turn the water back on
5) shut off the downstairs taps
6) shut off the upstairs taps
7) let go of the toilet flush

You should now have a quiet toilet again! The cause is 'pipe hammer' caused by the inbuilt air traps in the house filling with water over time.  Without the shock absorbing air in the traps the sudden stopping of the water flow when the toilet finishes filling causes the pipes to vibrate.